Sample Itinerary
01 — The Shape of the Trip
A city, then the hills, then the rainforest, then the sea — and back through the same airport you started in. Six stops, and every move between them is a flight.
Why this is the right fortnight. Late December is the dry season on both Thai coasts and in the north, which is the only time of year that is true of all three at once. The cost is that it is also everybody else's window: Phuket over New Year is at its busiest, which is one reason the coast gets two nights rather than five.
Stop 01 — Sat 18 – Mon 20 December
Marina Bay
Two nights to break the flight and reset the clock. Singapore is the easiest city in Asia to arrive in, and you will eat better here than the price suggests.
Proposed days
In during the afternoon. Something at a hawker centre rather than a restaurant — Maxwell or Lau Pa Sat — and an early night.
Gardens by the Bay in the morning while it is bearable, Chinatown and Telok Ayer in the afternoon, and the Supertrees lit up after dark.
The flight to Chiang Mai, about three hours.
Andaz King, city view
Sits above Bugis rather than on Marina Bay, which means real streets underneath rather than a mall, and a rooftop bar you would use even if you were not staying here.
On foot
Bugis MRT is in the building, so anywhere on the island is twenty minutes. Kampong Glam and Arab Street start at the door; Marina Bay is three stops.
Secured through my partnership
Stop 02 — Mon 20 – Thu 23 December
Northern Thailand
Three nights in the old walled city, which is small enough to walk and cool enough in December to want to. The hills start about twenty minutes from your door.
Proposed days
In by early afternoon. A slow loop of the moat and the old temples, and dinner somewhere on Nimmanhaemin.
Doi Suthep at seven before the coaches, then down through the Hmong village at Doi Pui. Afternoon free.
A full day at one of the no-riding sanctuaries in the Mae Taeng valley — I will book a specific one rather than a broker.
The drive to Chiang Rai, about three hours with a stop at the hot springs.
Deluxe Room, river view
On the Ping river a few minutes from the old city, built around a colonial-era British consulate that is now the tea house. Quiet in a city that is not.
On foot
The riverside walk is at the gate and the old city's east wall about fifteen minutes. The night bazaar is ten, which is close enough to walk back from.
Secured through my partnership
Stop 03 — Thu 23 – Sun 26 December
The Golden Triangle
Quieter and greener than Chiang Mai, and close enough to the Mekong that you can stand in Thailand and look at two other countries over Christmas lunch.
Proposed days
In by mid-afternoon. Wat Rong Khun late in the day when the coaches have gone and the white actually reads as white.
North to Chiang Saen and the Mekong, where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet. The opium museum is better than it sounds.
Nothing scheduled. Tea plantations at Choui Fong in the morning if you want a drive, and the hotel for the rest.
Chiang Rai to Surat Thani via Bangkok, then the road into Khao Sok.
Deluxe River View
On the Kok river just outside town, with lawns running down to the water. After three nights in a city this is the point where the trip slows down.
Getting around
About ten minutes from Chiang Rai town, so dinner in the night bazaar is a short taxi rather than a walk. The White Temple is fifteen minutes the other way.
Secured through my partnership
Stop 04 — Sun 26 – Mon 27 December
Surat Thani · rainforest
One night inland, in rainforest older than the Amazon. It breaks the journey south and it is the single most surprising place on this itinerary.
Proposed days
A long travel day ending at a river lodge. Dinner and the sound of the forest, which is louder than you expect.
Longtail out onto Cheow Lan at dawn, when the mist sits between the limestone. Back by early afternoon and on to the coast.
Riverside villa
A simple river lodge at the edge of the national park rather than a resort. For one night on the way to the coast, that is exactly the right register.
Getting around
On the Sok river, ten minutes from the park entrance and about an hour from the Cheow Lan pier, which is where the early boat leaves from.
What I’ll arrange
Stop 05 — Mon 27 – Wed 29 December
The Andaman coast
Two nights, which is short for Phuket and deliberate: this is the busiest week of its year. You use it as a base for the bay rather than for the island.
Proposed days
In by late afternoon. The beach, and nothing else.
A private longtail out at seven rather than the day-tour boats at ten — Koh Panyee and the hongs before anyone else is on the water.
Morning swim, then the flight to Singapore.
Deluxe Ocean View
Built into the cliff above Kamala, which keeps it out of the Patong crowd while still being on the good stretch of the west coast.
Getting around
Kamala beach is below the property by lift and stair. Phuket airport is about forty minutes north, and the Phang Nga piers roughly the same.
Secured through my partnership
Stop 06 — Wed 29 – Thu 30 December
Changi · one night
A night by the airport rather than a scramble for a connection. If the flight home is late enough, there is time for one last meal in town.
Proposed days
Down mid-afternoon. Jewel at Changi is genuinely worth an hour, and it is attached to the hotel.
The long one. Out in the morning.
Deluxe Room, runway view
Repeatedly voted the best airport hotel in the world, which sounds like faint praise until you have a 7am flight. Attached to Terminal 3 and quiet despite it.
Getting around
A covered walk to Terminal 3 and a short one to Jewel. The city is twenty minutes by MRT from the terminal if you want a last dinner out.
What I’ll arrange
Next Steps
Alex’s Atlas